With the bowsprit and
bow railing removed,
and the anchor locker
hatch cover removed,
the foredeck was
ready for refinishing.  
When you start
refinishing an area
that adjoins another
area, the temptation is
to do the entire area at
once.  And this can be
done, but I prefer to
break the job into
smaller pieces that can
be tackled and
completed in a
reasonable time.  
What this means is
that you have to
decide on your "area
boundaries", the area
which you will refinish
Refurbing - Foredeck refinishing
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The foredeck before refinishing began.  Note the areas
where the dorade boxes were removed have a
different color and texture, as they were not painted in
1995 with the rest of the foredeck.
The first step in refinishing the foredeck was removal
of the old paint and primer.  This took some time, as
there were a number of contoured surfaces that had
to be done by hand, especially around the raised
toerail base.  As mentioned earlier when discussing
hatch refinishing, the old non-skid was not sanded
completely off, but enough was left to leave a thin
coating of texture.
and then stop.  For the foredeck project, this meant the area from the bow to the first
stanchion on either side, and to the point where the raised cabin begins.  On the sides,
this extended over the toerail base and down to the rubrail.  The anchor locker itself
was made into another phase of the project to be done later, as it involves some
electrical wiring associated with the bow railing.
After sanding, I proceeded to apply a coat of
Interlux Primekote epoxy primer.  My initial thinking
was that the primer coat would be thick enough to
cover any surface imperfections.  For the most part,
it was, but there were some areas that did not come
out as smooth as I liked.  In particular, the area
where the dorade boxes had previously been
installed, and some of the areas where the bow rail
had been mounted, were in need of additional work.

After the primer coat was thoroughly dry, I sanded
down these problem areas and applied West
System epoxy with sanding filler to provide a
surface that could be sanded smooth..
The sanded foredeck
before priming.
The foredeck after the first
coat of primer.  The
forward hatch is covered
with plastic for rain
protection.
Before sanding
After sanding
You may have noticed that in applying the primer coat, I did not mask off the non-skid
areas from the regular deck surface.  This is because both the deck and the non-skid
areas use the same primer coat, but they get a different finish coat.  Masking was
only used for areas not to be painted at all -- the rub rails and deck plates.
After sanding down the
epoxied areas, I applied two
further coats of primer, with
light sanding between coats for
better adhesion.  At this point,
some of the surface areas
treated with epoxy, while still
visible, were smooth to the
touch.  These areas will be
covered by the finish coats.
After the primer coats were applied, it is time
to apply the masking tape to separate the
deck area from the non-skid.  Since the deck
area is to be painted white and the non-skid
area gray, the deck area was painted first.  
This is because gray covers white better than
white covers gray.  Two coats were applied,
with light sanding between coats with 320-grit
sandpaper.
The foredeck with primer coats applied.
The foredeck masked for
painting the deck areas.  
The non-skid will be
painted next.
Painting the non-skid
provides instant gratification
After painting the deck area,
the masking tape is
rearranged to cover the deck
area and allow painting the
non-skid.
Finally, the masking tape is removed and
the effort is rewarded.